OK i gotta get this out of my head before i have an aneurysm... or i forget anything, anyway here are some first impressions:

So, what the hell do you do when there isn't any surf when you are going through really tough times?

So, a few days ago, I surfed in Cardiff, at one of the many little peaks along the glistening strand of glassy waves with gorgeous sunsets. Always so damn fun, I ask myself every time I go there, “Why the hell do I not surf here more, let alone surf more ‘period’”??!!

Talk about a horribly on-shore, windy, 1'-2' foot "victory at sea" style day... I was at 11th street in Del Mar, California. The Birds were having trouble flying it was so damn windy. I was out with some friends, all of us miserable in the dreary, cloudy, meager surf... wind whipping the little waves into submission.