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How about the past two weeks...ah yeah!
Posted July 23rd, 2009 by Audie
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(...a light, contented, satisfied sigh>>)

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THIS is surfing~July 6th, 2009
Posted July 7th, 2009 by Audie
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The morning and day was a bit tough today, but worth it when I arrived at the late afternoon/evening that was to bring July 6th, 2009 to it’s end and to never return. I am going to state now that I feel as though my gratitude focus should be minimized to 3, max of 4 things that I write down every day.

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Beautiful. When ya least expect it.
Posted July 7th, 2009 by peter
Your rating: None Average: 5 (1 vote)

Its funny that there are times in life when you try so hard at something and it just doesnt work... heres a little surfing analogy:

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Lucky Livin' in So Cal
Posted June 25th, 2009 by Audie
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I am so grateful for what we have here in So Cal. Though there are many places in the world where you can work an 8-hour day, go skate a super sick skate park during your lunch hour, then go to your Rotary meeting and then hop in the water for a quick sunset surf session to top off your day. That was my Tuesday this week.

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The agony and the ecstasy of surfing...
Posted June 15th, 2009 by peter
Your rating: None Average: 5 (1 vote)

I've noticed a certain calmness about myself after a good long session, and I've seen it in other surfers. Its almost a defining characteristic. Sometimes its caused by a haze of smoke but today as I looked around in lineup at, myself, my friend and those around me...

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Usually set up with a ton of speed then a huge bottom turn then going as vertical as possible up the face of the wave and turning at the last possible second to stay in the wave. Awesome variations include pushing the tail out the back at the top of the wave and/or throwing your weight into it and hurling huge amount of spray into the air. Can also be pushed through into a 360 rotation. Feels FANTASTIC... almost as good as a long dry barrel. Also excellent stress relief.

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