What to do...
Posted May 19th, 2009 by Audie
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So, what the hell do you do when there isn't any surf when you are going through really tough times? I guess I would go skate if my future was-band didn't take my wheels and bearings. Why is it that when you are in the middle of an unwanted divorce, the one leaving ends up with the climbing gear, my wheels and bearings, the good tent and then leaves me with all the other crap that I have to look at and end up crying over? I know this isn't a super good surf blog, but I just have to get this stuff out since the surf today was so crappy. If the salty sea could have just given me some chest high waves to wash all of this sadness off of me, none of you would be reading about my sappy lost-love story.

But, here we are again, I am a chick and this is what chicks do. We blab and blab about all of the emotional downfalls we are going through hoping that if we speak it, it will float out of us into the air and never return again. But, without consistent surf, I speak it and it just floats right back into my heart, settles there overnight, and then creeps into my eye balls and I am raining all over my pillow as soon as the neurons start firing. Sorry, Pete and Jana, you are going to hate me for this article! LOL. At least that makes me laugh. I did surf like 4 or 5 days in a row and that helped a bit. The waves haven't been that good over the past week, a couple fun days here and there, but overall the conditions have been a bit lackluster...some wind bump on the water. I keep switching from my 5'10" to my 8'0", back and forth, back and forth, and am hoping that it will hone my skills. It takes a few waves each time to figure out that I am on a different board, trying to shuffle to the nose of my 5'10" or thinking that I can turn my 8'0" on a dime, HA! I actually had to do the Huntington hop the other day since the surf has been so weak...I couldn't believe I was trying to milk something that wasn't going to go anywhere or do anything.

We are going to be researching opinions on the ever-so-growing-popular foam boards...bodyboards with length, and those carbon fiber boards as well. Not sure what to think about it, but I am interested in hearing from the people who have surfed a bodyboard shaped like a fish or a scientifically engineered hollow wave missile. Yes, it's official; I don't know what I am talking about. Send me some comments on this people... I want some feedback on these boards!

Can someone have a chat with Mother Nature about negotiating for some surf? I am also open to a full sponsorship to go on a surf trip to somewhere that has surf...I suck, but that could be entertaining just the same!


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The ocean/life/nature is a...

The ocean/life/nature is a seemingly fickle love, and always makes you stronger whether by beating you senseless, honing your skills far beyond even your own expectations, or leaving you dry, waveless, and hopeless to suffer through the suffering that cocoons you in pain until you develop the strength to climb out, stronger and wiser than ever before ready to see the infinite beauty thats been all around you the whole time but you've been unable/too busy/too hurt to see.

The one leaving always leaves with something you want, and things you need, but life changes, needs change, and there is no shortage of new wonderful things to need, when your ready to look for and accept them. Dont rush it, take your time, its gonna hurt for a while but the good news is that gets replaced with something better than you could have ever imagined.

As for the carbon fiber boards, I'm getting a loaner to test and will give a full review SOON.

As for the surf, I had a few words with ocean and shes got something coming for us Sunday and something big not long after that, so hang in there, you're not alone, you never will be cuz you have friends, and the oceans not going anywhere.

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When your board dives into the water nose first from either charging too hard on a steep drop or when your learning and your weight is too far forward.

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