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Surfing...heaven here and now, no need to wait for it, we already live in it
Posted August 10th, 2009 by Audie
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This evening was one of those surf sessions that define the terms shock and awe. To stand above on the cliff, looking down on something that looks a little bit unappealing, knowing that no matter how it is, we drove out here, so there is no way we are not getting in the water. The type of surf that you stand there for 15-20 minutes just waiting for that set you are desperately hoping to see come through. And, after what…10 minutes, a set came through, a few encouraging words from people coming in, and we were sold. Suit it up for me, trunkin’ it for Pete. We lightly floated down the stairwell already beginning to feel more grounded, more connected to ourselves, the feeling of the earth beneath our feet and the atmosphere surrounding us.

I must admit publicly, that yes, I was wearing my Hotline 4/3 full suit and the water was probably 68? I know, I know. But if you saw me, hefty toothpicks for arms and legs, a slight breeze out there and my little Bahia hot-pant spring suit wouldn’t last me 45 minutes submersed on my 5’10”. So, I was hot, but I stayed out as long as my arms would last and that still wasn’t long enough for how much fun I was having. I caught one freakish set wave that was over my head when I did my wanna-be bottom turn. It was so fun, I would have loved another dozen of those suckers, but instead I got some super long, fun rights and lefts. The next goal for me is to spend an entire surf session attempting to get vertical and pull it. I will get it for sure, like Pete says, I just need to get the feeling of it once and I will fly like an eagle from that point forward. I need to give up the desire to make the wave last as long as possible and just enjoy the attempts and potentially many failures until I get it. I have been taking such a back seat approach to going for it, where is the freedom in that. I need to let all of the groms totally inspire me because that is all that they do, just catch every wave they can and do their best to hit the lip as often as possible. I still want a new board that will suit me better in surf. I hate to say it, but I am actually falling asleep at the computer while typing, that’s hilarious! Happy Tuesday and we are all so blessed to have these opportunities here for us to enjoy. I just have to say a prayer that all of those who were not with us today had an amazing day and those who are less fortunate and/or going through difficult times, please give them some comfort and compassion, it’s all about love. And I LOVE THE OCEAN!!!

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Usually hand made from a foam core (or "blank") with a wooden stringer that is sanded to the desired shape then coated with clear fiberglass/resin. Modern boards have anywhere from one to five fins arranged at the tail end of the board. Fins vary in size, stiffness, and shape and can often be changed to suit the rider or conditions. Boards can also be made from epoxy, carbon fiber, and multi-layered foam. An elastic leash is usually attached to the rear to make retrieving the board easier. While a surfboard can withstand hundreds of pounds of force they are also fragile and break down when left in hot areas (such as cars) and direct sunlight.

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