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Summer swells and warm water
Posted July 25th, 2009 by Audie
Your rating: None Average: 5 (2 votes)

Well, today was a good day for surf at my favorite spot. Good waves with good friends, nothing but slapping down on my rear end on every wave, but hey, you can't have the accomplishment without the challenge, right? There were pretty awesome people in the water today, I just missed the full moon crowd I guess as I was trying to catch up on the remaining 6 hours of sleep I needed. It was a dorkish session for me in the water today, but I still had a blast watching everyone else get steep drops, bottom turns, whack attacks (thank you Pete) and the sun and fun on the beach.

So, it's time to take my surfing to another level, I'm totally stuck in this stalemate of not distributing my weight in the right ways to accelerate, decelerate, etc. I am so used to switching back and forth between boards, but it's time to focus on what I am doing out there. I get so caught up in just having fun going down the line, but I know I could have a lot more fun if I could hit it with some speed, get vertical and be able to keep going instead of just stopping dead in the water. I need some coaching on it and I need to actually be in it and do it, having fun with it and not caring if I blow the wave. I blew every single wave today anyway, right? It's tough in the bigger surf because I just need to negotiate catching it, dropping in, hanging on and then focus on hitting it and turns.

No matter what, I am blessed to be out there, whatever the outcome of the session. I will get better, I am getting better every day whether it feels like it on some days or not. Surfing is a sport, practice will bring new rewards and it's pretty damn challenging to only get to practice on something that can last an average of what, 20 seconds on most waves, if that? That gets me all riled up inside, just thinking about how awesome that is! We were discussing my shortboard, how it could be better suited for me, maybe a little shorter. I would love to go get new fins for it tomorrow and try that out. That would be a great way to get something different out of the same board. I am pretty excited about it, actually. I have Futures on my board right now that may be a little bit too big for my weight, so just need to find something a little better for my little body to rip it up out there.

Wish me luck tomorrow, I am jonesin for a good session where I feel like I am actually surfing! xoxoxoxoxo~aud

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