So, a few days ago, I surfed in Cardiff, at one of the many little peaks along the glistening strand of glassy waves with gorgeous sunsets. Always so damn fun, I ask myself every time I go there, “Why the hell do I not surf here more, let alone surf more ‘period’”??!! Oh yeah, and then I remember…I had to grow up and work, working two jobs mind you. It was a beautiful warm afternoon/evening, waist to chest high surf. A little swampy, but still able to catch a few on my 5’10”. Peter and I paddled out, there were a couple other guys in the water and these two young (sorry, ladies, I have 10 years on you at the very least, probably more like 15 years) gals just ripping. They were doing turn after turn, pump after pump, having a blast. Obviously sponsored, doing the contest gig, and talking about their travels. I think I heard Indo, Australia, and talk of their upcoming contests. Sorry, does that classify as eavesdropping or just listening to ambient noise?

It made me long for a gal pal to compare notes, give each other inspiration, or to talk about how to shift my weight here and there to get more speed or hit the lip (yes, actually hitting the lip instead of doing whatever it is I actually end up doing). I usually do not prefer to hear a lot of chatting in the water, it’s where I go to church to worship mother earth and 70% of the time I love it quiet, tranquil, and to hear water splashing from behind as someone slashes a waterfall out the back. Okay, I’m starting to sound like Rick from North Shore, nothin’ but a haole. At least I didn’t learn to surf out in a pool somewhere in the desert. I caught a few fun ones, but as the tide came up, I thought about running up to grab my 8’0” after watching some style-y LB’ers cross stepping and hanging 10 at the peaks to the left and right of us. But, I stuck it out on my little love bug of a board and relished in the warming waters and setting sun. Sorry guys, I sound like a total chick and that’s because I am one and lovin’ it!

Summer is almost here, the south swells are going to pick up, and I will have to start honing in on my skills going left. Living for over 6 years with a view of Rincon from my house didn’t help me learn to rip at going left, but being regular foot at Rincon is a little slice of heaven. It’s a little slice of heaven no matter what! I miss Santa Barbara surf in the winter, but San Diego County sure is nice for year-round waves, norths and souths.

Lookin’ forward to my next session, going to dream about it, can’t wait for the board meeting on Thursday!

Cheers!