I am so grateful for what we have here in So Cal. Though there are many places in the world where you can work an 8-hour day, go skate a super sick skate park during your lunch hour, then go to your Rotary meeting and then hop in the water for a quick sunset surf session to top off your day. That was my Tuesday this week. It was a tough day in emotional aspects, but being able to make some money, skate, focus on some charity work and then surf…there is no horrible emotional setback that will impede your ability to take part in a day like that. So, now, let’s talk about the surf.

It was 7:30 pm by the time I left the meeting and we meet in O-Side near the pier. The tide was filling in to about 6 ft. (I think) at 10 p.m. It was pretty swamped out, but it looked fun enough to paddle out, for an hour anyway. I had heard that the dredging that had been done along the beach south of the pier had brought some pretty good sandbar formation to the line-up, but that just didn’t seem to be working too well with the tide I was dealing with and the fading swell. It’s like they took half of the beach away, so the tide was pushing all the way up the beach, just mushing it all out. I surfed at Tyson, which I used to have a blast at, but Tuesday evening was more of a “thank goodness I am getting wet” kind of session. The water is getting so warm, that it really doesn’t matter how good the surf is, it feels good just to bob around out there with dusk slowly setting in and making way for the night sky to appear. It was a nice time in the water, only caught two waves, both of which I flailed on, but I am grateful just the same. I have two legs and two arms and a few fun boards; I am so very fortunate.

Plus, if you can get out of the water at twilight and it be warm enough (remember, I’m a skinny little surfer girl) to peel off your suit and rinse off in the outdoor shower, you know summer is here and the south swells are going to start giving us some love. And who doesn’t love it when you can rinse your suit off before you even get home?! I have time to surf this evening, but with the tide rising, not sure if it will be good enough to drive out there when I have the “I have SO many other things that I must do” statement ringing in my head constantly. If I get all of my crap done tonight, then maybe I can enjoy a weekend full of surfing and skating without the guilt! Tally ho! Mother Nature, please send us some love this weekend!