(...a light, contented, satisfied sigh>>)

Fortunate doesn't even begin to describe it. Surfing almost every day for the past two weeks has been the biggest blessing and greatest gift in my life lately. There have been so many super fun, sunny, surf sessions during the past two weeks. The world has opened up it's arms, embraced me tightly, squeezing me so hard all I can do is smile and giggle at everyone I cross paths with. It must be infectious or magnetic because so many people have approached me to chat with, say hello, to let me test out their CI POD that I so desparately WANT!!!! There have been super fast lefts, slower crumbly rights, super fast rights, fun drops and bottom turns, wipeouts, face plants, and just plain playful moments in the water for me. I've been girlie out in the water, finally warm enough to wear my O'Neill spring (yeah, I know, the hot pants....totally not a slut or looking for attention, I swear!!!). I love my little Bahia, it doesn't give me some super funky tan line that I will never get rid of, it kinda lets a little too much of my tush hang out, but hey, is anyone complaining out there?

Yesterday the surf finally picked up a bit and there were some shoulder high standout sets that were super fun, connecting from outside ALL the way in to the beach. I was in heaven on one left and one right. Just laughing as I was going down the line, turning and turning (well, attempting to at least), thinking "when the hell is this wave gonna end?!". The water was SOOOOOO warm too, it felt like tepid bathwater on a hot day, just cool enough to soothe, but warm enough to stay in for a while. It felt so freeing, liberating, that feeling of not knowing where your body ends and the ocean begins or vice versa. The ocean is within us, we are not within the ocean. The crowd out there was interesting...I was the only chick in the little pod of cheerios, one group...obviously the honey nuts without the honey, running into people, each other, dinging boards, it was a bit ugly, actually.

Then there was the cool crowd of super rippers, I kinda hung out in their side of the bowl, hoping their sick surfing abilities would just osmosisize (nice word, lol) into me and I think it worked on a couple of waves. I stayed out of their way, they were cool to me and they were saying a lot of funny shit, so that was rad and entertaining. I love that spot, it's alway refreshing, always unpredictable. So, now I want a super fun little tri-fin, fatty, short, thick (hmmmm.....) that just tears up the summer surf! New goal, new goal!!!! Donations will be accepted, just comment back and you too can be a part of my progression in the water, haha! Light and Love and awesome waves to all of you out there!!!!!

xoxoxoxoxoxo~aud