Beautiful. When ya least expect it.
Posted July 7th, 2009 by peter
Your rating: None Average: 5 (1 vote)

Its funny that there are times in life when you try so hard at something and it just doesnt work... heres a little surfing analogy:

You plan for weeks and spend thousands of dollars to travel part way around the world to get to that 100%-all-the-time-perfect spot and its tiny, you get cut on the reef/your fins/poked by a sea urchin, so you sit on the beach and get sunburned and food poisoning...

Then there are days when you had no intention of surfing, you were too busy, too tired, too sore, and the surf is too small, too cold, too crowded, and its too late... but you go anyway because someone who loves you knows its good for you or your friend talked you into it or whatever... so you go to your local typically boring spot... and life opens up and hands you a magical session that fills your heart, pumps your adrenalin, and you find yourself entranced by all the rippling gold and blue as the sun sets over perfect glassy lines that surge into long peeling waves, and everything else just gets washed away. Your soul cleansed, and your spirit lifted with all the power of the ocean you get a sneak peek at the meaning of life. Then the glory that is the true potential of life hits you like warm summer sunlight after a long winter and you realize that every day can be as good as this if you just let go and let it. Don't let anyone fool you, it takes effort, but focus on what you love in life, make THAT happen and let go of the rest. Every day is a gift, don't take it for granted because once lost it cannot be regained no matter how rich or powerful you become. Measure wealth by the richness of your experiences, the love of those you care about, and the positive change you can create in this world.

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yeah, yeah, yeah, yeah,...

yeah, yeah, yeah, yeah, yeah!!!!!! Words to soothe my soul, calm my mind and warm m y heart.

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When your board dives into the water nose first from either charging too hard on a steep drop or when your learning and your weight is too far forward.

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