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August 5th, 2009~How is it August already?!
Posted August 7th, 2009 by Audie
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Man, I can’t believe we are in August. Loving life and spending almost every day in the water for whatever length of time I can has been serving me quite well. I am so fortunate for the long days with extended hours of daylight so I can get in a surf session almost every day. I surfed the same spot again today, but I keep thinking about how I need to go elsewhere. It’s just always fun and clean there, so I go with what I know I will have fun with. But, some of this summer surf at my favorite spot is a little bit slow, crumbly and weak. I need to get some waves that are a bit faster, lined up, more challenging. Since I have been shortboarding mostly, I need to hone in those skills and get ready for my winter surf trips up north. I am going to have to hit up SB county, get some good Rincon days in again and be ready to have a blast. I am going to start selling off as much of my stuff as possible, get rid of the old, move forward and buy a new board that suits me well now that I am fine tuning myself and the connection with different types of waves and different boards. I am much more confident in being able to ascertain which shapes, sizes, fins, etc. are going to work well for me. I can’t wait!

As Pete has mentioned, the beauty of being in the water, cleansing, refreshing, beating the crap out of you, being one with you, together with like-minded individuals, humbling you, building you up, mystifying you, exciting you, scaring you, there is nothing else that can do ALL of it for me. Surfing does it all, it gives me love, creativity, happiness, joy, frustration, laughter, and it’s a great surf session when 5 hours later you bend over to pick something up and a waterfall of saltwater comes rushing out of your nostrils…hopefully all over something and not someone, hahaha! There’s nothing like it for me in this world and I cannot ever imagine living without it. I almost can’t fall asleep just thinking about getting to the beach tomorrow after work. I went to the east coast last weekend, spent a day at the beach on Long Island near Hampton Bays. The spot we went to didn’t have any good surf, but I could see how other spots could get insanely fun. Next time I am out there, hopefully I will be able to get in the water. I wasn’t able to get up to Montauk, but have heard nothing but great things about some of the surf up there. This weekend is going to be a beach weekend for me for sure, have an old friend coming into town on Sunday and will hopefully get in the water with him.

All I can say to anyone is to just BE. Be. I am. You are. Live it, love it, and bring it to everyone else. Life is beyond good, it is a gift.

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When a powerful and hollow wave breaks it forces the air out of the barrel with so much force that it shoots a hard fast mist of water out with it.

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