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August 16, 2009-Your worst day of surfing is still better than your best day at work
Posted August 17th, 2009 by Audie
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That is the quote I heard from one of the funny gents in the water this morning. It was clean, glassy, warm, and super small and weak. After a very long day and night, waking up to glassy water, during the summer, with a marine layer still clinging above in the high skies, it was 100% necessary to hop into the car and head two blocks down to check it and freshen up. So, after seeing a fun appearing set roll through, I grabbed my necessities and ventured down the stairs to a beautiful Sunday morning full of promise.
Having my MBM with me didn’t serve me well in terms of catching waves and doing anything with them. But, the camaraderie in the water was enough to start my day, to remind me of why we all paddle out even when there isn’t much out there. Laughing with all the guys in the water felt good, seeing some friends I hadn’t seen in a while, that’s what it’s about and why we would rather be in the water on the worst day ever instead of being at work, unless, of course, your work involves paddling out. Or, I suppose, if you really do something you love just as much as surfing then ALL is good! I did find that although the water is super warm, around 70, I still get so cold after sitting for 30 minutes without waves. My 2/1 O’Neill Bahia super shorty is not enough to sustain me sitting deep in the water on my 5’10” for extended periods of time. I hate to wear a full suit in the summer, maybe traveling further away to other surf spots that might have more consistent surf is a good idea. I could buy a 2/1 full suit, but that just seems like so much body coverage. I do know that it is always nicer to stay out longer and be warms than to get cold. I need to buck up and take it as well.

Since there wasn’t much to talk about in regards to actually surfing, I still need to take my old 80’s board to get the fin glassed back on it. That sort of ding repair is a bit beyond my expertise, if there are any suggestions by anyone on who could do a good fin repair send me the info. I want to get this done before summer is completely gone so I can surf it on some fun summer surf. I haven’t been on that board in about 5 years at least. It might quench my thirst for a fatter/wider board so I won’t go out and buy a CI Pod, biscuit or fishcuit without selling half of my belongings first. It is an Angelo Ferrara, made for Angelo. The last time I surfed it, I really wasn’t too good at shortboarding then, so actually knowing what it can do and “feeling” it was not my focus back then. I am excited to try it out after getting much more comfy in the water on a shortboard over the last 5 years and maybe it will feel like I have a new board. It’s too big for what I am looking for, I would say it’s another 5’10”, 19 ½ wide and 2 5/8ths thick. So, at least it is beefier, but I would love it if is was about 5’4”. It’s got a squash tail with cut-away fins, and not a whole lot of rocker. Ooooh, I get so excited just thinking about it! Gotta do that, maybe on Wednesday on my way to or from the DMV. Happy Birthday to me…getting my board fixed!!!!

Need a swell, it’s flat, and that doesn’t work well for me right now…

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Usually in the afternoon the term is used to describe the ocean/surf when the wind dies down and the waters surface becomes very smooth like glass. Glassy conditions tend to improve a waves form... plus it just looks beautiful.

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