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Beautiful. When ya least expect it.
Posted July 7th, 2009 by peter
Your rating: None Average: 5 (1 vote)

Its funny that there are times in life when you try so hard at something and it just doesnt work... heres a little surfing analogy:

You plan for weeks and spend thousands of dollars to travel part way around the world to get to that 100%-all-the-time-perfect spot and its tiny, you get cut on the reef/your fins/poked by a sea urchin, so you sit on the beach and get sunburned and food poisoning...

Then there are days when you had no intention of surfing, you were too busy, too tired, too sore, and the surf is too small, too cold, too crowded, and its too late... but you go anyway because someone who loves you knows its good for you or your friend talked you into it or whatever... so you go to your local typically boring spot... and life opens up and hands you a magical session that fills your heart, pumps your adrenalin, and you find yourself entranced by all the rippling gold and blue as the sun sets over perfect glassy lines that surge into long peeling waves, and everything else just gets washed away. Your soul cleansed, and your spirit lifted with all the power of the ocean you get a sneak peek at the meaning of life. Then the glory that is the true potential of life hits you like warm summer sunlight after a long winter and you realize that every day can be as good as this if you just let go and let it. Don't let anyone fool you, it takes effort, but focus on what you love in life, make THAT happen and let go of the rest. Every day is a gift, don't take it for granted because once lost it cannot be regained no matter how rich or powerful you become. Measure wealth by the richness of your experiences, the love of those you care about, and the positive change you can create in this world.

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THIS is surfing~July 6th, 2009
Posted July 7th, 2009 by Audie
Your rating: None Average: 5 (1 vote)

The morning and day was a bit tough today, but worth it when I arrived at the late afternoon/evening that was to bring July 6th, 2009 to it’s end and to never return. I am going to state now that I feel as though my gratitude focus should be minimized to 3, max of 4 things that I write down every day. Each thing deserves more attention instead of blanketed among a million others listed in a row. It will really prompt me to think long and hard about it. So, for today, Pete is one of the three. The forceful decision by Jana to send us on our way, I am so grateful for. I am grateful for Pete, because if he didn’t go, I would not have had one of THE best surf sessions of my life. There was divinity in the water, the sky, the people and within me this evening. It stretched down from the sky that looked as if it was a fresco painted on the ceiling of my own personal church, the ocean. It seeped into the glassy, picturesque water and floated it’s way through the rolling swell to my feet and legs, permeating every pore in my body until I was filled with light, strength, confidence, energy and love. With all three elements melded into one, I was able to be one with the wave, move with it, along it’s steep, fast surface, gliding weightlessly, finally able to feel light and free for just that short while in the water.

I had so many good waves I became utterly giddy (just ask Pete), turning into that one annoying chick in the water that wouldn’t shut up. So, the second thing I am grateful for is the universe for answering my prayers for help. I pleaded for help this morning and it came, moments of peace, of exhilaration, of hope, and of me. I am so grateful for the universe bringing mother nature to me and for her to take me in, embracing me and reminding me that there is still joy, beauty, happiness, and hope out there for me. I cannot imagine life without the ocean, the outdoors, the sunsets, the moonrise, the other people and creatures, or without me in it. The third thing I am so grateful for were the other people in the water tonight. I caught so many waves, which may mean that many of them did not. I am so grateful to them for allowing me to have my moments that brought me out of some very dark depths I have been lost in over the past few days. They may never know what that did for me, but I would like to take this opportunity to send love to them through the universal divine forces out there. Thank you.

Sharing an experience with a friend that loves life and those he cares about, cannot help but rub off on me, that undying optimism for these precious lives we have and the moments that can brighten even the darkest of places within our hearts while reminding us of the importance of living these moments without letting them pass us by when we cannot ever get them back. It was meant to be that the rights tonight were just as fast and fun as the lefts, I had a goofy foot on my left and I was right where I needed to be, sharing waves with such an amazing friend and surrounded by a group of smiling faces; a bowl of cheerios where I was not the soggy one, we were all fresh, all happy to cluster together, and someone up there, something out there, swirled a huge spoonful of honey in our bowl tonight and made it the sweetest surf session I have had in a very long time.

My gratitude is overwhelming and connected to something greater that answered my requests for help. Tonight I felt like the glassy water was full of celestial beings reflected just like the stars in the wide, expansive sky above. We were all one tonight, all dancing in the water as if we had roots that reached through the ocean floor into the very core of the earth while our spirits were swirling up and out of us into the sky above. There is no better way to close than to say a prayer by the Dalai Lama:
“May I become at all times, both now and forever, a protector for those without protection, a guide for those who have lost their way, a ship for those with oceans to cross, a bridge for those with rivers to cross, a sanctuary for those in danger, a lamp for those who need light, a place of refuge for those needing shelter, and a servant to all those in need.”

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How about the past two weeks...ah yeah!
Posted July 23rd, 2009 by Audie
Your rating: None Average: 5 (1 vote)

(...a light, contented, satisfied sigh>>)

Fortunate doesn't even begin to describe it. Surfing almost every day for the past two weeks has been the biggest blessing and greatest gift in my life lately. There have been so many super fun, sunny, surf sessions during the past two weeks. The world has opened up it's arms, embraced me tightly, squeezing me so hard all I can do is smile and giggle at everyone I cross paths with. It must be infectious or magnetic because so many people have approached me to chat with, say hello, to let me test out their CI POD that I so desparately WANT!!!! There have been super fast lefts, slower crumbly rights, super fast rights, fun drops and bottom turns, wipeouts, face plants, and just plain playful moments in the water for me. I've been girlie out in the water, finally warm enough to wear my O'Neill spring (yeah, I know, the hot pants....totally not a slut or looking for attention, I swear!!!). I love my little Bahia, it doesn't give me some super funky tan line that I will never get rid of, it kinda lets a little too much of my tush hang out, but hey, is anyone complaining out there?

Yesterday the surf finally picked up a bit and there were some shoulder high standout sets that were super fun, connecting from outside ALL the way in to the beach. I was in heaven on one left and one right. Just laughing as I was going down the line, turning and turning (well, attempting to at least), thinking "when the hell is this wave gonna end?!". The water was SOOOOOO warm too, it felt like tepid bathwater on a hot day, just cool enough to soothe, but warm enough to stay in for a while. It felt so freeing, liberating, that feeling of not knowing where your body ends and the ocean begins or vice versa. The ocean is within us, we are not within the ocean. The crowd out there was interesting...I was the only chick in the little pod of cheerios, one group...obviously the honey nuts without the honey, running into people, each other, dinging boards, it was a bit ugly, actually.

Then there was the cool crowd of super rippers, I kinda hung out in their side of the bowl, hoping their sick surfing abilities would just osmosisize (nice word, lol) into me and I think it worked on a couple of waves. I stayed out of their way, they were cool to me and they were saying a lot of funny shit, so that was rad and entertaining. I love that spot, it's alway refreshing, always unpredictable. So, now I want a super fun little tri-fin, fatty, short, thick (hmmmm.....) that just tears up the summer surf! New goal, new goal!!!! Donations will be accepted, just comment back and you too can be a part of my progression in the water, haha! Light and Love and awesome waves to all of you out there!!!!!

xoxoxoxoxoxo~aud

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Summer swells and warm water
Posted July 25th, 2009 by Audie
Your rating: None Average: 5 (2 votes)

Well, today was a good day for surf at my favorite spot. Good waves with good friends, nothing but slapping down on my rear end on every wave, but hey, you can't have the accomplishment without the challenge, right? There were pretty awesome people in the water today, I just missed the full moon crowd I guess as I was trying to catch up on the remaining 6 hours of sleep I needed. It was a dorkish session for me in the water today, but I still had a blast watching everyone else get steep drops, bottom turns, whack attacks (thank you Pete) and the sun and fun on the beach.

So, it's time to take my surfing to another level, I'm totally stuck in this stalemate of not distributing my weight in the right ways to accelerate, decelerate, etc. I am so used to switching back and forth between boards, but it's time to focus on what I am doing out there. I get so caught up in just having fun going down the line, but I know I could have a lot more fun if I could hit it with some speed, get vertical and be able to keep going instead of just stopping dead in the water. I need some coaching on it and I need to actually be in it and do it, having fun with it and not caring if I blow the wave. I blew every single wave today anyway, right? It's tough in the bigger surf because I just need to negotiate catching it, dropping in, hanging on and then focus on hitting it and turns.

No matter what, I am blessed to be out there, whatever the outcome of the session. I will get better, I am getting better every day whether it feels like it on some days or not. Surfing is a sport, practice will bring new rewards and it's pretty damn challenging to only get to practice on something that can last an average of what, 20 seconds on most waves, if that? That gets me all riled up inside, just thinking about how awesome that is! We were discussing my shortboard, how it could be better suited for me, maybe a little shorter. I would love to go get new fins for it tomorrow and try that out. That would be a great way to get something different out of the same board. I am pretty excited about it, actually. I have Futures on my board right now that may be a little bit too big for my weight, so just need to find something a little better for my little body to rip it up out there.

Wish me luck tomorrow, I am jonesin for a good session where I feel like I am actually surfing! xoxoxoxoxo~aud

Sorry, you need to install flash to see this content.


Summer swells and warm water
Posted July 25th, 2009 by Audie
Your rating: None Average: 5 (2 votes)

Well, today was a good day for surf at my favorite spot. Good waves with good friends, nothing but slapping down on my rear end on every wave, but hey, you can't have the accomplishment without the challenge, right? There were pretty awesome people in the water today, I just missed the full moon crowd I guess as I was trying to catch up on the remaining 6 hours of sleep I needed. It was a dorkish session for me in the water today, but I still had a blast watching everyone else get steep drops, bottom turns, whack attacks (thank you Pete) and the sun and fun on the beach.

So, it's time to take my surfing to another level, I'm totally stuck in this stalemate of not distributing my weight in the right ways to accelerate, decelerate, etc. I am so used to switching back and forth between boards, but it's time to focus on what I am doing out there. I get so caught up in just having fun going down the line, but I know I could have a lot more fun if I could hit it with some speed, get vertical and be able to keep going instead of just stopping dead in the water. I need some coaching on it and I need to actually be in it and do it, having fun with it and not caring if I blow the wave. I blew every single wave today anyway, right? It's tough in the bigger surf because I just need to negotiate catching it, dropping in, hanging on and then focus on hitting it and turns.

No matter what, I am blessed to be out there, whatever the outcome of the session. I will get better, I am getting better every day whether it feels like it on some days or not. Surfing is a sport, practice will bring new rewards and it's pretty damn challenging to only get to practice on something that can last an average of what, 20 seconds on most waves, if that? That gets me all riled up inside, just thinking about how awesome that is! We were discussing my shortboard, how it could be better suited for me, maybe a little shorter. I would love to go get new fins for it tomorrow and try that out. That would be a great way to get something different out of the same board. I am pretty excited about it, actually. I have Futures on my board right now that may be a little bit too big for my weight, so just need to find something a little better for my little body to rip it up out there.

Wish me luck tomorrow, I am jonesin for a good session where I feel like I am actually surfing! xoxoxoxoxo~aud

Sorry, you need to install flash to see this content.


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