Talk about a horribly on-shore, windy, 1'-2' foot "victory at sea" style day... I was at 11th street in Del Mar, California. The Birds were having trouble flying it was so damn windy. I was out with some friends, all of us miserable in the dreary, cloudy, meager surf... wind whipping the little waves into submission.
So, what the hell do you do when there isn't any surf when you are going through really tough times?
I've noticed a certain calmness about myself after a good long session, and I've seen it in other surfers. Its almost a defining characteristic. Sometimes its caused by a haze of smoke but today as I looked around in lineup at, myself, my friend and those around me...
Its funny that there are times in life when you try so hard at something and it just doesnt work... heres a little surfing analogy:
So, a few days ago, I surfed in Cardiff, at one of the many little peaks along the glistening strand of glassy waves with gorgeous sunsets. Always so damn fun, I ask myself every time I go there, “Why the hell do I not surf here more, let alone surf more ‘period’”??!!
OK i gotta get this out of my head before i have an aneurysm... or i forget anything, anyway here are some first impressions:
I am so grateful for what we have here in So Cal. Though there are many places in the world where you can work an 8-hour day, go skate a super sick skate park during your lunch hour, then go to your Rotary meeting and then hop in the water for a quick sunset surf session to top off your day. That was my Tuesday this week.
The morning and day was a bit tough today, but worth it when I arrived at the late afternoon/evening that was to bring July 6th, 2009 to it’s end and to never return. I am going to state now that I feel as though my gratitude focus should be minimized to 3, max of 4 things that I write down every day.