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Strange Surf in California...
Posted May 7th, 2009 by peter
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Talk about a horribly on-shore, windy, 1'-2' foot "victory at sea" style day... I was at 11th street in Del Mar, California. The Birds were having trouble flying it was so damn windy. I was out with some friends, all of us miserable in the dreary, cloudy, meager surf... wind whipping the little waves into submission.

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What to do...
Posted May 19th, 2009 by Audie
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So, what the hell do you do when there isn't any surf when you are going through really tough times?

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The agony and the ecstasy of surfing...
Posted June 15th, 2009 by peter
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I've noticed a certain calmness about myself after a good long session, and I've seen it in other surfers. Its almost a defining characteristic. Sometimes its caused by a haze of smoke but today as I looked around in lineup at, myself, my friend and those around me...

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Beautiful. When ya least expect it.
Posted July 7th, 2009 by peter
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Its funny that there are times in life when you try so hard at something and it just doesnt work... heres a little surfing analogy:

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May 5th, 2009
Posted May 7th, 2009 by Audie
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So, a few days ago, I surfed in Cardiff, at one of the many little peaks along the glistening strand of glassy waves with gorgeous sunsets. Always so damn fun, I ask myself every time I go there, “Why the hell do I not surf here more, let alone surf more ‘period’”??!!

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Carbon fiber aviso surfboards? HELL YEA! But...
Posted June 6th, 2009 by peter
Your rating: None Average: 4.5 (2 votes)

OK i gotta get this out of my head before i have an aneurysm... or i forget anything, anyway here are some first impressions:

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Lucky Livin' in So Cal
Posted June 25th, 2009 by Audie
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I am so grateful for what we have here in So Cal. Though there are many places in the world where you can work an 8-hour day, go skate a super sick skate park during your lunch hour, then go to your Rotary meeting and then hop in the water for a quick sunset surf session to top off your day. That was my Tuesday this week.

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THIS is surfing~July 6th, 2009
Posted July 7th, 2009 by Audie
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The morning and day was a bit tough today, but worth it when I arrived at the late afternoon/evening that was to bring July 6th, 2009 to it’s end and to never return. I am going to state now that I feel as though my gratitude focus should be minimized to 3, max of 4 things that I write down every day.

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Getting yourself into the hollow cylinder created inside a wave when it breaks over a reef, sandbar, or shallow bottom. The goal is to get in and stay in as long as possible, then exit at the last possible moment - the cleaner the exit the better. The bigger the barrel the greater the glory. However long you think you got barreled - cut it in half to get an almost accurate estimate.

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